Day 184-2011 : Paradise on Earth - Final Part

I have finally reached the end of my boring travelogue on our trip to Kashmir.  Blogging is a time consuming hobby, so please bear with me.

The only agenda on the final day was for the whole group to fly back to their homes.  As we left the hotel everyone had mixed feelings.  On the one hand, the relief of going back to familiar environments was evident, but, on the other hand, people were surprised at how quickly the last 6 days passed.  We made new friends, which is a big plus for group tours, and everyone was promising everyone else that they would be staying in touch. 

There were worries that we could meet heavy traffic on our way to the airport as the J&K capital was being shifted that day from Jammu to Srinagar!  We were told that if we did meet those government convoys carrying the entire officialdom (people & paper), it could take hours to get out of the jams.  Thankfully, the drive from the hotel to the airport was a short one.

I have to however, mention an interesting fact, as it was a first for me.  As we approached the airport, our vehicle was stopped at a security gate about 1 KM from the airport.  The procedure was to screen all the baggage at this distance and then load it back into the vehicles to travel the rest of the distance to the airport.  In all, there were three rings of security layers by the time we reached the check-in counter. 

After going through all of that we finally boarded the flight.  We did not have to change flights this time and were back in Mumbai after 2 stops (Jammu & Delhi).  Tired and not looking forward to getting back to the daily routine.

All of us, especially the kids and me were now sporting a tan (see picture above)!  We also had cold rashes on our faces due to the extended exposure to the cold and dry weather.  They are all now gone, but it did take quite a few days for people to stop commenting on my 'looking like a red tomato' look!

While I have been writing this travelogue over the last few weeks, the global economy has again started showing signs of stalling.  Countries are being described as 'group of PIIGS'.  At least I have done my bit for the economy by burning a  huge hole in my pocket for this trip.  Is it however, going to be 2008 revisited?  Watch this space.

Take care!

Day 149-2011 : Paradise On Earth - Part 4

Day 4 was to be an early start, as we had to drive from Pahalgam to Gulmarg.  After an early breakfast, we boarded our vehicle (a TATA Winger) for a 5 hour drive!  The early rising part is what Priya hated about this day.  She could not understand why would anyone want to rise as early as 6 AM on a vacation trip.  Actually, even on a normal day, 6 AM is a bit too early for her.  She obviously loves her nine winks!  However, the promise of our first view of real snow (not ice) and possible snowfall, was good enough for her to sacrifice her sleep.

Pahalgam to Gulmarg was an uneventful drive, except for the fact that we stopped for refreshments on the way, at a cricket bat manufacturing factory.  By now, refreshments for us meant Kahwah!  Kahwah is a traditional green tea recipe made in the Kashmir Valley, Pakistan, Afghanistan and other places in Central Asia.  And it is wonderful, full of various herbs and dry fruits; very refreshing! The bat factory was basically a place where logs of walnut trees were being cut into bat size logs.  These were then stacked together for further processing to be chiseled as the bats that we see cricketers playing with.  Seeing and holding a 'Mongoose' for the first time, I just could not resist buying it.  Good willow, I hope I get to use it some time soon!  Not to be left behind, Suryanksh got one for himself too.

Father & son with the new acquisition - a Mongoose!

We touched the outskirts of Srinagar, on our way from Pahalgam to Gulmarg.  Before climbing the 'ghats' of Gulmarg, we stopped at Tangmarg, to hire / buy woollens for everyone to cope with the snow on top of the mountains in Gulmarg.  After checking in to the hotel in Gulmarg and having lunch, we were off on our mission to experience the beauty of Gulmarg.  Gulmarg is, by the way, in Baramula district in Kashmir and is very close to the Line of Control (LOC) between India & Pakistan.  We had to take the Gondola ride to get to the snow-clad slopes of Gulmarg.  The Gondola ride itself was very interesting.  It is the highest cable car in the world, reaching 3950 metres.  We stopped at Kongdoori station, where the Phase 1 of the Gondola ends.  Phase 2 of the Gondola takes you to the top of the Kongdoori mountain.  It had begun to rain when we were in the Gondola.  When we reached Kongdoori, the sight in front of us was breathtakingly beautiful; well worth the early start, Priya confirmed!

As if on cue, as soon as we reached the snow-clad slopes, it started snowing, something we had hoped for when we decided to come to Kashmir.  Gulmarg offers one of the longest and highest ski slopes in Asia.  Yours truly tried his hand with the skis and so did Suryanksh.  Myself and Suryanksh had a great time playing with the snow and making yet another 'bonsai' snowman!  Priyanksh was too tired for the fun and games and hence slept off!  Priya was of course, left holding the baby, literally!

After having a great time in the snow, we had to rush to take the Gondola ride back to the base and reach our hotel in time.  By now the rain was pouring really hard and reaching the warmth of our hotel was a relief.  Now, I have to mention here, the real struggle for resources, in hill stations like Gulmarg, to run our day-to-day lives, some of which we take it for granted in the cities that we live in.  It was freezing cold in Gulmarg, the water in the pipes was just short of becoming ice and guess what, the boilers to heat the water in the hotel could not work because there was no electricity supply.  The hotel was surviving on just one generator.  Usage of water was ruled out for the kids.  Moreover, most of the other things in the hotel also did not seem to work, right from the bulbs (which they replaced) to the television (which they couldn't)!  Thankfully, we were here only for the night and the gas heaters were great!  But, hats off to the locals, who actually live in such difficult circumstances.

After a good dinner, and an impromptu birthday party (for one of the kids in the group) in the dining hall, we were lulled into deep sleep by the warmth of the gas heaters!  Another day ended, actually zipped through.  And we had only a few more to look forward to.  More about them in the next post.

Take care.

Day 142-2011 : Paradise On Earth - Part 3

Day 3 in Kashmir and we find ourselves in Pahalgam.  Pahalgam is one of the most beautiful places in Kashmir.  The scenery, when I woke up in the morning and looked out of the window of my hotel room, was amazing.  The rising sun was shining bright on the snow lying on the mountains...radiant!

After breakfast, we headed out to a place called Chandanwari.  We did not know what to expect, but when we reached there, we realised that we are going to meet snow, point blank range for the first time.  It was a steep climb made a little dangerous by some of the snow slowly turning into ice.  And guess what, we made our first snowman here!  Now, making a snowman is not as easy a task as it sounds, especially without any gloves.  The palms of our hands started freezing after the first few scoops of the snow.  However, we finally managed to erect something that might resemble an emaciated and gaunt snowman!  Suryanksh was mighty upset (which is seen in the picture below) that we did not carry a carrot for making the snowman's nose, in spite of him telling us that repeatedly for the past one month!  Small twigs would have to do for the nose as of now!

We came down in a sledge when descending the slopes.  It is a bit scary (given that these are hand-made wooden sledges) but also an exhilarating experience.  It took us exactly a minute to slide down the slopes which we had climbed in about forty minutes.

On our way back to the hotel, we visited the Betaab Valley, christened so because the Sunny Deol - Amrita Singh starrer, Betaab, was shot on location here.  Again, more beautiful landscapes.  The locals have tried to maintain the landscape as it was in the film.

I have been asked to also describe my interactions with the local Kashmiris.  To be honest, for the first few days, I held back myself from picking their brains, just to test the waters.  Only after being comfortable of the fact that Kashmiris are not necessarily hostile to their countrymen who do not happen to be Kashmiris, did I open up.  The people were extremely friendly and helpful!  Kashmiris respect tourists, because their livelihood depends on tourists, at least for a vast majority of them.  There is acceptance of this fact peace brings prosperity.  I spoke to a shop keeper, who was very happy that the situation in the last five months has been relatively peaceful thus allowing the tourism industry to function.  Priya went to buy Rajma (imagine buying Rajma from Kashmir for taking it to Mumbai!!!!) in a grocer's shop near our hotel in Srinagar and the shopkeeper, after learning that she is a tourist from Mumbai, offered her tea and insisted that she have it!  It is a place where tourism drives a lot of things and there is no tourism for 5-6 months when it is snowing.  I was told that they lock themselves up in those 6 months in their homes and do nothing.  Hence the window to earn for their livelihood is drastically reduced.  It is ironical that in such a beautiful place, the people live a very hard and difficult life.  One or two of them though, from the younger lot, did come across as someone who considered themselves different from Indians, especially when they were negotiating for money!

After lunch and the mandatory afternoon nap that my better half has to have, we went for a visit to Aru Valley.  The drive to Aru Valley is so jaw-droppingly picturesque, I was spell-bound by the landscape.  It was a very narrow pathway and in fading light, especially while coming back, the driver of our Maruti Omni showed great driving skills!  I was impressed.

Another day had gone by.  As I was dozing off after dinner, I couldn't help but think that I had not bargained to be presented with such wonders of nature when I decided to come to Kashmir.  Little did I know that there was more to come.

Take care.

Day 127-2011 : Paradise On Earth - Part 1

It has now been four days since I came back from Kashmir.  I still cannot get over the dazzling beauty of the place; I guess, I never will.

This is the story of my holiday trip to Kashmir.  Like any story, a good build-up helps.  So here goes.

It was a very late decision to take a holiday.  Myself and Priya had been mulling over where to go to, for quite some time.  One thing was certain: After 5 years of not taking any holidays, we were determined to take time off and travel to some place.  We felt confident that the kids were now big enough to take the risk!  Finally, we decided that given the time constraints and two sub-five kids, booking a domestic holiday package was the best option.  As to where to go to, we decided to start right at the top.  Kashmir!

The preparations began a week ahead of the departure date.  All the pre-trip shopping for the mandatory stuff to carry along was, to say the least, painful!  Finally, we are all set.

The itinerary was a shocker!  We learnt that we had to endure a five hour plane ride, departing at 6 AM (with 2 stops!) to get to Srinagar.  We got there on time though, after the two stops at Delhi and Jammu.  It was hot (dry heat) in Srinagar, when we landed.  Our first stop was a house boat on the famous Dal Lake.  A thirty minute drive to the Dal and a minute ride on a Shikara took us to our house boat; HB Young Light.

Now a house boat, if you have ever been to one, is an interesting place to stay.  It has an external sitting area, a common drawing room and a clutch of rooms (very similar to a hotel room) for guests to stay.  The number of rooms in a house boat depends on how big the house boat is.  The largest house boat, I was told, on the Dal was a 7-room house boat.  Ours was a 3 room one.  A comfortable contraption, it has all the amenities that a normal hotel room might have.  The fact that it is in the lake, takes some time to get used to.  One has to be very careful, especially if you have small kids, as you might actually step into the lake if you do not mind where your foot is!  Another irritant is the swarm of insects (harmless mosquitoes, we were told).  You need to cover yourself and use insect repellent creams.  One might also feel a bit claustrophobic in a house boat, but it is a great place to stay for a couple of days for city-slickers like us.

HB Young Light: The Common Room

I had been warned that the people in Kashmir might not be very welcoming.  I was happy that this was not the case.  The people are great!  The owner of the house boat, Muhammedbhai, insisted that we consider the house boat as our own home and give him a shout at any time of the day, if we need anything at all.  The owners of the house boats generally live at the back of the house boat itself.  Notwithstanding the earlier warning about Kashmiris not being hospitable, I think the people of Kashmir are realising that tourism is their lifeline.  Of course, in the evening, the owner produced multiple relatives who were selling one or the other thing.  Clothes, saffron & other herbs, handicrafts, etc.  The hard-sell was a great 'put-off' for me.  But, it was their livelihood.

The evening was spent rowing about in a Shikara all over the Dal Lake.  The Dal is one of the biggest lake that I have seen, next only to maybe, Loch Ness in the Highlands in Scotland.  Over a lakh households actually live on the lake!  The Dal has an economy and a community of its own.  It is huge!  I was amazed to see the little causeways in the lake which led to the different parts of it.  Everything is available on the lake.  Right from grocery shops, mobile photo studios (on Shikaras!) and handicraft unit to private farms on which vegetables are grown.  There are floating gardens on it too.  The Dal is infested by wild growth of weeds all over.  A huge investment has been made to continuously dredge the lake to take these weeds out which inhibit the proper functioning of this large aquatic body.  The Dal Lake really impressed me!  The views of the surrounding mountain ranges and the house boats, from a Shikara are spectacular. 

We did stop by the Nehru Park and a couple of shops on the lake.  Also, we did a mobile photo shoot (a first for me) in a Shikara wearing traditional Kashmiri costumes, the prints of which were delivered promptly in the evening. 

Thus our first day in Kashmir ended on the Dal Lake.  I did have a good night's sleep in the house boat.  However, when you spend hours together in a Shikara, you get the gentle swaying sensation of a boat even when lying flat on your bed!  It feels like you are sleeping in a 'thottal', if you know what I mean.

Next morning, we were to drive to Pahalgam, a 5 hour drive!  The next post will be all about Pahalgam and its surrounding places. 

Till then...take care!

Day 116-2011 : A Locha Called IPL..

We definitely need Lalit Modi back!  At least the IPL does.

Just a couple of weeks ago, in the euphoria of the World Cup win, I was actually looking forward to the IPL.  A lot of friends said it is overkill; an overdose of cricket.  I somehow was actually not feeling that way and was looking forward to more cricket.  The World Cup win probably making me want more.

A fortnight into the competition and I am not so sure anymore.  With ten teams and a competition that runs for more than 1.5 months, this tournament is going to take some viewing.  And the format is convoluted too.  I just cannot understand it.  With every team playing every other day, it is beginning to get a bit confusing.  Forget about the matches, following the points table is getting to be difficult.  Add to this the player changes this season.  It took some time for me to figure out who is playing for which franchisee.  And I am not sure, I still know of all the changes.  A Gambhir playing for Kolkata, Yuvraj for Pune and Dravid for Rajasthan!  Two new teams, Pune and Kochi, which by the way, has its own identity crisis to figure out, of being a team from Kerala or Gujarat!  I am now really feeling 'cricket fatigued'.

So two new teams.  What else is new?  Cheer leaders...of a different kind!  Fully clothed cheer leaders in traditional Indian costumes are doing duty for the Pune Warriors.  I am not sure if that is going down well; with the crowds as well as the ladies themselves!  Imagine dancing in the sun fully decked up!  The SET MAX hosts have a couple of new inclusions as well, one of them actually trying to do a Mandira Bedi with noodle straps and a strategically placed 'Pallu'.

Notwithstanding all of this however, there have been a couple of great performances this season.  Paul Valthaty...(who!?!?!) has emerged as the King for the Kings XI Punjab team.  The knock he played against the Chennai Super Kings was tremendous.  No wonder Greg Chappell has been talking of the Indian bench strength.  Sachin's first T20 century was a knock to savour as well, especially because it showed that he is still learning and evolving.  Yes, he played some helicopter shots aka Dhoni with equal effect!

Though I am not inclined to follow each and every match, my favourite teams this season are the Mumbai Indians and the Chennai Super Kings.  At the start of the tournament, I expected them to play the finals.  Currently, one of them is at the top of the points table and the other at the bottom.  Now that I have shifted base to Mumbai, my loyalties have now shifted to the Mumbai Indians! Of course, having a strong team helps too!  I am rooting for them to win this season.  But there are still a whole load of matches to be played before we reach the finals...we will just have to endure them.

By the way, tomorrow me and the family go away to Kashmir for a week's vacation.  Now, you know what to expect in the next post then!

Take care!