Day 365-2011 : Adieu...

Adieu to a remarkable year.  A year in which the power of collective action was demonstrated time and again.  Throughout the year.  If there was one word which could correctly encapsulate the tone of the entire year of 2011, it was revolution.

2011 will be remembered as the year in which the clamor for change was heard the loudest.  People protested against everything.  From atrocities of dictators to the corruption of politicians; from women objecting to being branded as sluts based on how they dressed to people objecting to the social and economic inequality by occupying Wall Street.  Some of these were highly successful, but some weren't so.  The world today is definitely a different place after the Arab Spring.  The ouster of at least four dictators till date and a few more under siege are clear signs of people embracing the path of non-violent protests...and winning.  I grew up on news reports of the violent struggles in Lebanon and Palestine.  I grew up on reports of Pakistan attacking the sovereign borders of this country. Over the years I have watched the various extremist actions by Islamic groups across the world.  However, in 2011, it was so refreshing to see the Islamic populace adopting non-violence as the core principle of their protests across the world.  Of course, the perennial mascot of Islamic violence himself, Osama-bin-Laden, was killed this year.

Closer home, the story has been much the same.  One scam after another being unearthed by the activism of the media and the judiciary, and people in high places of power being held responsible for it, gave the common man in India a common cause to fight against, corruption.  True, corruption was not invented this year and it was certainly not discovered by Anna Hazare.  Anna and the India Against Corruption movement just grabbed the opportunity created by the prevailing mood of disillusionment caused by the multiple scams.  It was an amazing movement with a momentum of its own, causing the government of the day to grumble, mumble, stumble and tumble for one reason or the other on a daily basis.  For once the might of a government in power was dwarfed by a people's movement and was found wanting.  It was like a rabbit caught in the headlights, not withstanding the feeble, and sometimes questionable, attempts at redemption by its favorite crisis managers.

The financial services industry was not only hit by world-wide recession but also people power.  Beginning in Wall Street, groups of activists protested against the greed of the financial services sector which has ruined many economies, across the major financial centers in the world.  Occupy Dalal Street was also on the schedule, but the protest lasted for less than an hour when the 40 odd protesters were bundled off to preventive custody!  Typical of Mumbai, nobody could care less.  The looming crisis in Europe has caused discontent among its citizens as well.  People across the various countries comprising the European Union protested, either against the imposed austerity measures or against the funding of weaker countries in the union.  

However, the one common thread across all of this has been uncertainty.  The situation in Europe is still very uncertain, so is the case with the India Against Corruption and its movement for the Lokpal Bill.  Some of the Arab countries which were 'liberated' from the clutches of the various dictators, are still grappling with the problem of finding viable alternatives.  This sense of uncertainty will, I think, be the biggest challenge for the new year.  Clearly, the year 2012 is going to be a difficult one for the world, with the financial crisis and slowdown showing no signs improvement.  Political stress across the world can only contribute to it and make it worse.  Did somebody say that the world is coming to an end in 2012 as well?

Personally, it is time again for me to review my resolutions and goals which I set for myself at the beginning of the last year.  With that objective, I did go through my post on this blog on the first day of 2011.  Having read through it, I find that, all that I have listed there, are still valid resolutions and goals.  Not that I haven't achieved any of them.  I feel that I have made significant progress on most of them, however, I realize that I could do more.  Also, I am ending the year with a tick in the box for something that I have always wanted to do...a road trip to Ahmedabad from Mumbai!  I loved the 8 hour drive and am gearing up for the drive back tomorrow.

So, there you go...my resolutions for the coming year are not very different from those that I made at the beginning of the last year.  Which was the case last year as well!  After all isn't this blog all about the sense of Deja Vu?!

Finally, I wish you and your loved ones a happy, healthy and prosperous 2012.  For those of you who plan to party hard tonight to ring in the new year, please do so responsibly and have a great time!

Take care!

Day 361-2011 : Why This Kolaveri Di?

Precisely my point u ....why?  

Why the kolaveri over u Kolaveri?  The song u which comes across as a spontaneous, casual and  a light-hearted recording u of some u silly Tanglish (Tamil & English) lyrics u over a lazy afternoon, has now become not only a national u, but an international u sensation u!  There are at least u ten versions u of the song u in various other Indian u languages.  I have also seen the Japanese do aerobics u to the Kolaveri beats u, there is an English R & B version u, there is a Bhangra Pop version u and God knows u how many more u!?!?  Last u heard u, Sony, the music label that owns the music rights u, was planning to get some  u official remixes out soon u!

So, what works for this song u?  First and foremost u, the power u of viral marketing u by leveraging the social u media!  It has won u the YouTube u Gold award u, with more than 27 million hits u for the video and counting u.  Various versions of the song u have been 'shared' u on Facebook u by about 7.5 million people.  All of these facts u show us the might of the social u media and what can be achieved if it is used u cleverly.  Within a few days u of its launch u, the song u became an internet u sensation and was perhaps u the only Tamil song u that I have heard u on FM stations u in Mumbai.  It has been featured u  on news channels u and music stations u across the globe!  All of this u, even before the music album u of the film was 'officially' released u....and, this is the best u part, at zero marketing spend u!  Do I see case studies u being made at the IIMs?

Secondly, the product itself u is good.  The 'kuuthu' beats u work u wonderfully well u with the silly Tanglish lyrics u that Dhanush himself has penned u.  Kuuthu music in Tamil films u, can almost always be banked upon u to deliver a catchy number u, this one has just found u resonance worldwide u.  The silly lyrics u, as Dhanush himself calls them, works u for the audience u, notwithstanding Javed Akhtar's u views u on them!  I saw the video after a couple of days u of its release u on social media, when someone shared u it on one of the groups u that I am a member of, on Facebook u.  I liked u it instantly!  I couldn't help but u share it on my wall u.  To me what sounds good u is good enough.  The almost casual atmosphere u seen in the video of the song recording u, suits itself u perfectly well to be marketed u through the 'casualness' u of social media.  The colloquial Tanglish u with a distinct accent u is a good do as well.  It appears u that Dhanush, Aniruddha u, Aishwarya and Shruti were having u a lot of fun making u the song u.  And, of course u, the wide toothed u innocence of Dhanush's smile works u with the girls u!

Last u, but not the least u, as most of his fans u would have worked u it out by now u, the song u works because it has  Rajini connect u!  It is also rumoured u that the superstar u is going to feature u in a special appearance u for this song u in the movie.  

Looks like Rajinikanth knows u why this kolaveri di!  Should I be surprised u?

Please take care u!

Day 340-2011 : Coming soon...Eurogeddon?

It has been on the slow boil for some time and there is every possibility now, that it might just boil over.  The failure of the politicians in Europe combined with the toothless actions of the European Central Bank has ensured that we are probably very close to witnessing the death of the unified currency, Euro.  There are however many who still believe that it is simply inconceivable that the Euro might break up, mostly politicians and their side-kicks.  Must I remind that the sovereign debt crisis which is at the root of this existential question for the Euro, has already resulted in a few governments being evicted.  It is certainly time to seriously take a look at what went wrong and what are the options now. 

What went wrong?

One size cannot fit all.  One currency with 17 different economies, the fundamentals of every economy being different due to the unique mix of resources that they have.  The fiscal and the monetary policies, which drive the management of these resources towards continuous growth and development also did not have any commonality even after the single currency came into effect at the turn of the century.  The stronger core countries like Germany and France used the compromised parameters of the new currency to push their exports contributing to actual GDP growth.  The other peripherals, namely Greece, Ireland, Spain, etc. bungled fiscally under the false impression of a strong currency and overspent to put themselves on the same growth path as others in the union.  The result:  Huge globs of sovereign debt, which these countries are finding increasingly difficult to service.  The expectation is that the stronger (and richer) countries help pay off the debt of the weaker ones.  However, the baker in Frankfurt will now ask his government as to why should he pay for the sins of his 'European' colleague in Athens.  At least the governments of the stronger countries fear so.  Quite justifiably so.

What are the options?

Businesses world-wide are already making contingency plans and running stress tests on the various possible scenarios.  So what are the options?  There are numerous permutations possible, however, broadly, there are three:

1) A Partial Breakup:  It is widely speculated that this is the most likely scenario which might play out.  The withdrawal or expulsion of the peripheral, weaker countries like Greece, Ireland, Portugal and Spain from the unified currency.  For the stronger countries and the advocates of the continued unified currency, this might be their best option.  It will however have severe consequences.  The change will have to be controlled, failing which this can snowball into a free for all.  The weaker countries do not have a choice.  They will have to implement severely restrictive austerity measures if they have to continue in the union.  They will also have to brace for a severe devaluation of their new currency if they pull-out of the union.  It is a choice between the devil and the deep sea.  There is the probability of returning to long term sustainable growth, however, to get there these countries will have to make innumerable sacrifices and prepare for the worst, including a run on the entire banking system of the country.

2) Full Euro Breakup:  The full blow-up could have major consequences across the globe.  It is very obvious that any exposure (by means of a financial or non-financial contract) to the Euro will mean instant impact.  The failure of one of the major currencies in the financial markets most certainly will have a domino effect on all asset classes.  EU is a major export market for the US as well as many emerging Asian economies like India, Thailand and China.  The denomination of the Euro into 17 different new currencies will bring with it the currency risk of severe devaluation / revaluation.  This is apart from the logistical challenge of creating (printing, valuing & distributing) a new currency overnight; remember, the member countries had almost a decade to plan for the common unified currency.  Clearly, this is the worst case scenario, and it will take down more than the European Union countries with it.  Major economies across the world will feel the pinch and may even be driven into a prolonged recession.

3) Do Nothing; Maintain Status Quo:  This is what has happened till date.  We are living this scenario right now, thanks to the prolonged procrastination of the leaders of the European countries.  However, this scenario is clearly not sustainable.  The idea of robbing Paul to pay Peter is not sound economics.

Whatever be the outcome of the unique situation that the world finds itself in today, there will be plenty to learn from Europe's expensive experiment with a unified currency.  The Afro....and the Asio (?!?), beware!

Take care!

Day 324-2011 : Shame on you, Mumbai!

On 20 October 2011 Keenan Santos, Reuben Fernandes and a group of their friends, who were standing outside Amboli Kitchen and Bar, at Andheri in Mumbai, were assaulted by a mob. The assault was in retaliation to an altercation between Reuben & Keenan’s friends and a member of the mob, who was drunk and had fallen over one of the girls in the group, earlier. In the fight that followed, Keenan Santos was killed and Reuben Fernandes succumbed to his injuries 13 days later at a hospital in Mumbai.

Sounds like an everyday event in a metro like Mumbai?  Maybe, but it raises several important questions about the cultural ethos and the moral fabric of the city.  This is a story of how these two bravehearts stood up against the anti-social elements, to fight injustice and for what was right.  Something that all of us have been taught since our school days, by teachers and parents alike.  This is also a story of a violent attack happening on a busy street of Mumbai, where nobody remembered those morals and values.  No one on the bustling street came forward to help the victims, in spite of the girls screaming for help.  There was a crowd of bystanders watching what was going on but not a single soul from the crowd had the courage to help the victims. 

Much has been said in the past about the much celebrated 'spirit' of Mumbai during various crises such as the flash floods and terror attacks. Where was this 'spirit' of Mumbai when this incident happened? I am sure this was an incident which could have been controlled by such ordinary citizens at that moment, if they had the courage to do so, unlike the floods and the terror attacks. The fact is, there is no such 'spirit'! The fact is that we are all scared. The fact is that the repeated blows to the cultural ethos of the city due to terror attacks and riots have made us all insensitive. Insensitive to anything other than what concerns us. We go about our lives quietly, not interfering in other people's affairs.  Do we have the courage to stop it? Next time, if you see a girl being harassed, will we have the courage to act?

Much has also been said in the past about how Mumbai is such a safe place for women and how it is different from say, Delhi. Such a claim, frankly, sounds very hollow to me. When a crowd of people could not stop a bunch of eve-teasers on a busy street in the city that never sleeps, how safe is it?   I have repeatedly written about how Mumbai has changed in the last decade for the worse in my posts on this blog and this is just another reminder of the continuing degradation.  But the fact is, this could have happened anywhere in the country and Mumbai is no different from any of them. Not any more. 

Another interesting fact in the story is that the girls with the victims did try to contact the police using the 100 number, while the boys were fighting off the goons.  It is alleged that the call was on 'waiting' and it would take 20 minutes before it could be attended to.  Did the police and its delayed response mechanisms contribute to the death of the two men?

This case has been taken up by the media with great gusto, helping the families and friends of the victims to get justice.  The accused have been arrested.  But the question remains.  Will Keenan & Reuben get justice?  Only the other day, one heard that Manu Sharma, the convict in the Jessica Lal case has been granted a 5 day parole!  What kind of justice is this?

The campaign to support the cause of delivering justice to Keenan & Reuben implores Mumbai to 'wake up'.  Will Mumbai wake up?

Take care.

Day 309-2011 : iPad...or just a fad?!?!

Finally!  After many months of thinking about it, many months of talking to Apple devotees and weighing the pros and cons of owning an Apple product and finally, as a tribute to the designing genius of Steve Jobs, I am now the proud (?!?!) owner of an iPad2!   Staying true to the ultra conservatism of a 'madraasi maama', I went in for the basic '16GB Wi-Fi only' model.   Bought at the spur of a moment (the multi-month deliberations did not help me reach a conclusion), as all my technology buys have been in the past, the iPad, in my first week of ownership, gets a 3 star (***) rating.  Apple aficionados might kill me for saying so, but I am hoping I shall get the benefit of doubt as I am still getting up to speed with it.  This happens to be my first post using my new toy, so people, you will have to excuse me for any grammatical or formatting errors.

First impressions first.   The moment I held the tablet in my hands for the first time, I knew that I am going to love this gadget.   It just felt so light and comfortable holding it.   Getting started is nice and easy, once you know what to do!  Slightly different and cumbersome compared to getting started on a new PC. However, the great thing about iPad is that it is shipped with a fully charged battery!  This was so helpful because the product was shipped to me from the U.S. by my cousin. It took me a few days to procure a multiple-pin adaptor to be able charge the device.  The size of the screen and even more importantly, the inbuilt keyboard do take some getting used to.  The user interface is slick and creates the impression that one is using a product designed with the user and a high benchmark of quality in mind.

Once you are up and running, the next challenge is to figure out how and why would this gadget be useful?   For someone who uses a PC to do no more than the three basic tasks of checking emails, accessing social networking sites and posting blog messages, it is very difficult to figure what more value could this device add.  Mobility?  Yes!   However, I will now have to get my Wi-Fi router placed in a more strategic position to be able to use it everywhere in the house. Just more work to adapt to the new gadget.   This is not done yet, so the mobility of this 'new kid off the block' is restricted to my study as of now.

I also learnt in some of the conversations that I had with existing owners, that the lure of iPhone and iPad is due to the millions of 'apps' that can be downloaded to the device for various useful purposes, including 'loner' entertainment!   Apart from the mandatory social networking apps, I have only been able to reach as far as a dumb 'Drag Racing' game and a 'Parrot' which flaps it's wings whenever I tilt the iPad in any direction. I think it also tries to curse me but, it isn't very clear to me what the content of it might be!  Also, I have still not figured out the methodology to uninstall an app if I do not like it.  In the due course of time, I am sure I shall be able to discover many more (free) apps which will add value to my digital existence.  But till then, I will have to use the trial and error method to get to the apps which I might find useful.  I have prodded existing users who were drooling about the gadget and its uses, to help me get up to speed quicker on it.  Unsolicited feedback on this topic is quite welcome as well! 

This is as far as I could get to in the first week, at the end of which, I am left hoping that the iPad does not turn out to be just a fad!

Take care.

Day 302-2011 : Gym Time!

The alarm on my mobile phone rings at 6.00 AM. I open my eyes immediately and manhandle my phone in my attempt to press a button...any button!  Usually it is the 'snooze' button which gets preference and the cycle repeats itself in another 5 minutes.  I have to be careful not to push it, as the lady of the house, is in deep slumber, along with the cubs, and the incessant ringing of the alarm bell might bring her to life!  If that happens, meri to khair nahi...

The idea of the entire exercise above is...well....exercise!  The goal is to be able to reach the gymnasium, which involves a torturous 300 metres walk, by 6.30 AM.  The first thought that comes to my head is, 'Is it Thursday today?', as the gym is closed every Thursday.  The next question that I ask myself is, 'Does any part of my body hurt?  Ankles, back, etc., etc.?'  If so, I surely do not want to aggravate any of it.  That done, I quietly try to find out, if by any chance, the boys are awake.  If so, I can engage them rather than go to the gym! Once I get through this elaborate validation exercise and find no excuse for not going to the gym, I pack my gym bag and walk those 300 metres to the gym.  Getting to the gym is definitely the most difficult part of my exercise regimen, each morning!

I am now a regular at the gym, the regularity gradually increasing over the last few years.  But this year, I have spent the most time in the gym compared to any of the previous ones.  It probably also has to do with the fact that the place is more than a gym, it is a club.  It houses a fully equipped gym, a swimming pool, a steam and a sauna room, a badminton court, a billiards table, a table-tennis table and other assorted board games, including carrom!  This is the Raheja Vihar Club House, where I spend an hour, 5 days a week.  The 6th day, Sunday, is an extended session of 2 hours.

Back to the morning routine.  It is quite interesting, the fact that, throughout my walk to the gym, my workout at the gym and the walk back, I almost always end up seeing the same faces!  On the roads, it is the female group who gossip more than they walk, the uncle group whose discussions range from national politics to....society politics, the young couples who seem to enjoy the company more than the walk, the serious runners preparing for the upcoming marathon with all kinds of jazzy gadgets strapped on, the teenager who seems to be barely awake (probably pushed out of the bed by his parents to go and get some exercise) and the pot-bellied uncle who is always on the mobile phone while he walks!  In the gym, again, the same faces each day.  The frustrated, but narcissistic actor who has a larger ego than his biceps, a middle aged uncle who watches the gym equipment more than using it, a young lady who does the most strenuous routines, the other lady who keeps looking if someone is looking at her, the badminton pro who plays with the men on the court everyday and beats them and a sincere Sardarji who has lost probably more than 10 kgs since I started seeing him in the gym.  It looks like we are all a slave to habits and routines.

My routine is a modest one, the aim being to burn 300 calories in 60 minutes.  The routine includes 18 minutes on the treadmill with the speed changing incrementally every 2.5 minutes, another 17 - 18 minutes on the elliptical / normal cycle with incremental levels of difficulty and 24-25 minutes of stretches and weights.  I tend to change the routine some days and replace the gym workout with 25 laps in the pool.  The result till date: About 4 kgs and one waist size lost in the last 3 months, not bad I would say. 

Problem is, my BMI says I am still 'slightly overweight' and all that has been lost can be back in no time if I lower my guard!  But, I am more than determined not to do so!

This is a battle of will....and it has to be won!

Take care.

Day 301-2011 : Life is like that...

It has been a while since I posted something on this blog.  A month and three days to be precise...

A lot has happened in these 33 days.  When I published my last post, I was looking forward to celebrating my 37th birthday, which was 5 days hence.  I had already decided that the happenings of the day would make a good copy for my next post.  However, life has this peculiar knack of deciding its own course and things do not necessarily pan out like one intends them to. 

In the last one month, so many things have happened.  The economic crisis in Europe has only worsened while Sarkozy now has a daughter from Bruni. Sonia Gandhi is back in the thick of politics after her surgery, probably accelerated even more by the dismal performance of her party in the recent by-elections.  The silken voice of Jagjit Singh has been silenced by fate, sparking a brisk sale of his albums across music stores in the country.  The designing genius of Steve Jobs is no more, just a few days before I am about to own an Apple product for the first time in my life.  The eccentricity of Gaddafi's character has been lost to the global policing of the Americans.  Mumbai Indians have won the Champions League, without anyone from Mumbai actually playing in the eleven, India have paid back England in the ODI series in India and the festive spirit has set in and is in full flow since Navratri and Dussera, followed up by Diwali a couple of days ago.  Also in the meantime, I have subjected myself to the Annual Health Check, prompting me to be at the gym more often and a cricket team has been formed with work colleagues.  I have also been able to visit a couple of friends' places, fulfilling longstanding promises, have picked up a book to read after a break of a couple of months, finished reading it within a week and bought a few more.  But perhaps the most profound happening in these last few days has been my visit to a crematorium for the first time in my life! 

dance

as though no one is watching you,

love

as though you have never been hurt before,

sing

as though no one can hear you,

live

as though heaven is on earth.

- souza 

It is not that I haven't had the time to file a post since the last one; I have just not been able to write.  Call it a 'writer's block' or something else, I just haven't been able to write, in spite of some of the regular readers of this blog prodding me for the next post.  Someone mentioned that it is probably due to a philosophical concept called Smashana Vairagya, which, when it hits you, reveals the impermanence and insignificance of life very clearly!  Probably.  I did realise that day, on the eve of my own birthday, when the body was being cremated, that there will not be another opportunity to say goodbye.  Strangely, it took some time for that feeling to sink in.  I have been told that one gets over the feeling once he gets out of the crematorium and gets going with the duties of this material life.  I however think that, maybe it might be useful to carry little bit of that realisation to our day-to-day lives.  Nothing is permanent in its physical form and nothing is too significant ultimately. 

We might then probably take life a little less seriously.  We might then live life to its fullest!

Take care.

Day 268-2011 : Life In The 'Fast' Lane

I have been feeling exactly like that for the last few weeks.  Hours turning into days, days into weeks and weeks into months in a jiffy!

Nevertheless, the one thing that I have noticed in these busy times, is that the phenomenon of 'fasting' is suddenly catching on.  All credit to Anna Hazare.  The latest on the bandwagon was 'Aapno Na-Mo'.  And then it was a case of 'counter-fast', when Shankarsinh Vaghela also started his fast at the Gandhi Ashram in Ahmedabad at the same time.

First up, the Na-Mo fast.  It was very interestingly called The Sadbhavana Mission.  Sadbhavana means, prayer for togetherness.  Togetherness and Narendra Modi?  It just does not sound right.  The man who is accused of telling the police forces to let the Hindus vent their anger and not interfere during the Godhra riots is now talking about togetherness.  Quite farcical.  It was also a 5-star fast!  No...no...I am saying that the rules of the fast allowed 5-Stars to be consumed (similar to a Perk advertisement).  However, the fast was a unique one, conducted in the fully air-conditioned Gujarat University Convention Hall.  Throughout the day, dignitaries from the BJP and other specially 'invited' prayer groups of all religions came to the stage to shake hands with the CM.  The entire bureaucracy from the capital, Gandhinagar, had stationed themselves at the hall as well.  Hence, practically, no work happened during the 3 days in the government corridors of Gandhinagar.  It was also very widely reported in the media that chants of 'Allah-O-Akbar' rented the air at the venue.  Now, were they really 'rented'?

The CM was photographed in various head gears offered by the visitors throughout the three days.  But, the bluff was called when an Imam offered Na-Mo a skullcap, which Modi politely declined to wear.  Boom!  So much for 'Sadbhavana'!  This looked to me as more of a positioning exercise before the next Assembly elections in Gujarat and the next General Elections in the country.  Clearly, the ambitious man that he is, Na-Mo has his eyes set on the national political canvass.

The competing 'counter-fast' did not even get a mention in many sections of the media.  I guess, it is very difficult to be a congressman in Gujarat these days.  So, I shall also limit my references to it on this post.

Talking of fasts, my mother was with us for the last week.  She fasts three times a week!  I have been asking her quit, as by now, I argue, all her wishes might have been fulfilled.  However, she continues to observe the weekly fasts quite fastidiously!  Let me not talk about my various experiments with fasting in the last couple of years.  The latest one is to fast for a day of the week, consuming only water and nothing else.  I am told it has a very good detoxifying effect.  The only thing that I notice it giving me is a severe headache!

In other fast lane happenings, the buzz is on for the first ever F1 race in India and I am slowly revving up my desire to be there.  Still have to figure out my schedule and whether it allows me the diversion during this festive season and the busy time of the year.  Watch this space for that.

Take care.

Day 253-2011 : Chennai Times

Last week I was in Chennai for a couple of days, which I guess, is no surprise to anybody who has been reading the copious amounts of status updates that I have been posting on FB, to mark the occasion!  I was there to attend the wedding of former colleague and friend (and fellow blogger!) Navin Kumar to Subhatra.  Having received the invite more than a month ago, I was determined to be there for the occasion, in spite of the two days in question being working days.  In fact, I was looking forward to be in Chennai after more than a year and was excited at the prospect of catching up with old colleagues and friends. 

I hopped on to the flight to Chennai last Thursday afternoon.  The differences between Chennai and Mumbai, especially the infrastructure, was very stark.  The taxi ride to Savera took just 25 minutes!  To cover the same distance in Mumbai would have taken more time.  The roads seemed to me like an ice-skating rink.  After driving on Mumbai roads this was pure pleasure.  There were fly-overs to be seen in places where there had been none a year ago!  New buildings have come up in record times.  The city of Mumbai, which is known for its 'pace of life', is being shamed by this southern metro city with its pace of infrastructure development and execution.

The wedding itself was very well-attended.  I attended both the ceremonies; the reception on the eve of the wedding as well as the wedding early next morning.  I was also honoured to meet Navin's parents, who I know were looking forward to this event since the last couple of years!

At Navin's reception

I met a lot of friends during both the occasions. It was also interesting to note how different some of them were looking, and how some of them had not changed a bit in the last one and a half years.  I was surprisingly at a loss of words when I met some of them. I made at least one mistake remembering a name...a slip of tongue, which probably was construed as me not remembering her name. So embarrassing!  And then, in the ensuing panic in my mind, I mixed her up with someone else.  Very very embarrassing.  Anyway, it was great to meet up with first and foremost, Navin and then all the others, namely, Vijay, Sukumar, Bonny, Dinesh, Karthik, Prem, Prabhu, Sathish, and Alagappan.  I met Jayanthi, Vandhana, Hari and Uma the next day morning.  It was also wonderful to catch up with Venkat (another fellow blogger!).  I was also a bit dissapointed at not being able to meet a couple of others like Chris, Raja and Murali.

In the more than adequate time that I had before my evening flight back, on Friday, I went hunting for Dumka Roat, a previously unknown commodity to me, but a delivcacy which is apparently in great demand amongst my colleagues in Mumbai!  I also picked up the mandatory Badusha for the better half.  I was trying to arrange a drop to the airport from the hotel (costing Rs.600!), when Sukumar suggested it was possible to go in the local trains as well.  So, I travelled for the first time in a Chennai local train from Mambalam to Tirusoolam for a princely sum of Rs.4!  Even the local train infrastructure reminded me of how woefully inadequate Mumbai's infrastructure is compared to Chennai.  The Tirusoolam station is actually connected physically to the Chennai airport through an underpass; Mumbai still does not have connectivity between its local train network and the airport! 

From the calm of Chennai (even the local train ride was very quiet) to the bustling 'visarjan atmosphere' of Mumbai, was quite a change.  Diversity, thy name is India!

Take care!

Day 240-2011 : A Pregnant Victory

It is the flavour of the season and hence has found a place on this blog too.

Anna Hazare and his India Against Corruption movement have just completed round 2 of their battle against the politicians, in and out of power.  Anna broke his 288-hours long fast earlier this morning on the back of the Indian parliament passing a resolution yesterday to agree 'in principle', to his 3 key demands on the content of the bill.  Thanks to Tata Sky, I haven't been able to track the various developments related to the movement for the last 2 days.  I have been depending on the more 'old school' method of consuming news in the last two days, the morning newspapers.

My sense of the the mood that prevails in the country, from what I read in the papers every morning, is one of jubilation.  The movement has been projected as the common man's fight against the powerful egalitarian class.  There seems to be a sense of achievement and empowerment in people at large, due to the developments of the last few days leading to the Anna breaking his fast this morning.  A great victory for democracy!

Or is it? 

Earlier last week I found myself debating the pros and cons of the 'Anna Methodology' with a few of my colleagues.  I found myself questioning the tactics adopted by the social activist and his team.  Mind you, I am all for the cause.  I strongly believe that corruption is like termites, eating into the foundations of our social systems and rendering them hollow.  And I fully support a movement aimed at making the laws in this country strong to rid us of the scourge of corruption.  However, to dictate terms to a democratic institution like the parliament for calling off the fast, to me, is equivalent to blackmail.  More importantly, it sets a dangerous precedent in a country like ours.  It can result in a free for all.  It concerns me.  And it should concern you.

There are voices within the core of Team Anna as well who feel the same way.  Justice Santosh Hegde has expressed similar views in public and not surprisingly he is no longer part of the core team.  I am sure, Justice Hegde, like me, sees an element of populism in the movement.  Anna and his team at times appear to be playing to the gallery, a rather large one too!  Anna's movement and fasts have been compared to the ones undertaken by Mahatma Gandhi.  I think there is a fundamental difference between the two.  Mahatma Gandhi never allowed a situation of 'me versus you' to develop when he agitated...the movement and the fasts focused on the causes. 

My argument with my colleagues was that in any negotiation it is not advisable to take an extreme stand as a starting point.  It gives very little room to manoeuvre to arrive at a 'win-win' solution.  Moreover, it results in a loss of face.  From my perspective, though the country at large might have forgotten it, Team Anna's main demand when he embarked on the fast was to pass the Jan Lokpal Bill in the parliament before August 30.  Anna has not been able to achieve that. 

What has been achieved is a 'pregnant victory' which promises more than it delivers.  For the sake of the strong democratic traditions of this country, I certainly hope that it finally does deliver.

Take care.

Day 233-2011 : Nature's Bounty

Last weekend I was in Nashik at my Chitappa's (uncle) place.  I spent some time getting acquainted to what my uncle has been working on for some years and now feel compelled to write a post about it.  Parvathy Nivas at Date Nagar, very close to the banks of the river Godavari, is a decent sized bungalow in a residential area.  However, it is a great example of how one individual can contribute to the green cause and make an impact.

It all started years ago when my uncle, Ramesh Iyer, bought the place and built a bungalow in a part of Nashik which was inhabited by few.  The house today, though surrounded by many rows of concrete now, has more greenery than one can imagine.  All a result of years of painstaking effort put in by one man and his family who are passionate about nature.

As soon as you step into the gate, there is a remarkable difference in temperature, even evident in a city which anyways has a very pleasant climate for most of the year.  If you are expecting to see a perfectly landscaped garden as is the case in most city households / complexes, you will be dissappointed.  Instead what catches your attention is the way in which the garden has been allowed to develop naturally.  In fact, my uncle says, this is not a garden, it is a jungle. 

And it surely has all the interesting elements of a jungle, especially the element of surprise.  The first interesting thing that strikes you is the use of waste material in the garden.  Coconut shells, broken pipes and plastic bottles have been used to create a vertical, hanging garden.  These specimens are found hanging all over in the garden, on the gates and even inside the house!  Space isn't a constraint here, however, such hanging gardens are I think, ideal for people who live in flats in cities and have very little space.

Ingenious use of waste materials as a hanging garden

You will be surprised to find a small pond inside the compound.  This small pond boasts of not only many types of fishes, but also frogs and turtles.  Lotus and lilies grow in pond.  The pond is at the base of an artificial waterfall made in the garden.  The thick vegetation in the garden is home to, believe it or not, more than 60 species of birds, not captive, but living out of their own will there.  There are a couple of bird feeders, which is filled with seeds at all points of time.  The house also has nesting boxes for birds!

A Bird Feeder

Nesting boxes for birds

One of the most interesting spectacles that I witnessed on this visit was the Tailor Bird's artistry.  The mother had clinically sewn up three leaves, by her beak, in a camouflaged corner of the garden to make a comfortable nest for laying her eggs.  The eggs had hatched when we were there and we could see the chicks ensconsed in the comfort of the cotton and cloth cushion made by the mother Tailor bird inside the nest.

The Tailor Bird's Nest

Next up was the kitchen garden, where many fruits and vegetables are grown.  Papayas, custard apples, blue berries, coconuts and lemons were all there.  All of it is for self consumption or giving away as gifts to guests and relatives.

However, the most interesting part of my uncle's work has been the creation of many terrariums.  Terrariums are enclosed ecosystems built on a smaller scale for raising plants, with controls for environmental conditions.  He is now an authority on terrariums and hosts and lectures school children on environmental trips regularly in his garden.

Terrarium

Another terrarium - Bottled Beauty

Apart from the various requests from schools and colleges, Ramesh Iyer's work for nature has been recognised in the local circles and he is now invariably a part of any initiative on the environment in the city.  Due recognition for all the tireless efforts I would say. 

However, the journey has not always been easy. There have been irritants such as neighbours, who objected to the thick growth of vegetation inside the house, complaining about the possibility of insects troubling them!  Needless to say, all such complaints by people who have never ever planted a tree in their lives have been dealt with tact and strength of will over the years.

Kudos to this man and his impressive commitment to nature.  I hope many more will follow in his footsteps and join him in increasing the fast depleting green cover in our cities!

Take care.

Day 218-2011 : The English Nightmare

The Indian cricket team has had a pretty cool last year and a half.  They haven't lost a series, for the last 11 series, have sat on the top of the world Test rankings throughout the year and in April, won the World Cup as well.  Truly, a dream run!

They must be, however, beginning to realise that this dream was only a prelude to what they might call, in a couple of months' time, as the 'English Nightmare'. 

The India v/s England series was billed as top draw, a battle between, arguably, the world's two best cricket teams.  At stake is the top spot in the world Test rankings.  It has however, turned out to be a damp squib.  Two tests down, it has been a no contest between a tired, ill-prepared, injury ridden side and a well prepared and disciplned side.  The Indian side has been slow on the field and doesn't have a clue on how to handle swing and seam.  The only exception has been 'The Wall', excelling at the place where he made his debut about 15 years ago.

England now have an unbeatable 2-0 in the series.  So what are the reasons for this disgraceful slump? 

The symptoms:  No Virender Sehwag, the musical chairs between Yuvraj and Raina, Gambhir injured and to top all of that, the main strike bowler, Zaheer Khan out with a hamstring injury after bowling a few overs in the first test. 

For once, I would not blame the cricketers at all.  Clearly, we do not seem to be taking good care of our cricket team!  The BCCI has been greedy and these are all the symptoms of that.  The schedule of the Indian team is jam-packed; the idea being to milk it more!  The World Cup followed by the long and hectic IPL followed by the West Indian series and then the current England series.  Those who have been part of all of this, should be exhausted by now!  We run the risk of pushing some of our talented cricketers to the brink of burnouts.  Is BCCI killing the hen which lays the golden egg?

On the other hand, the English team look to be very well prepared.  It is probably the strongest ever English team that I have seen in the last few decades.  They seem to have sorted out their ego issues (especially prima donna KP!) and the captaincy capers.  Strauss has led well.  They have planned the downfall of each and every Indian batsmen meticulously.  Their batting line up is solid!  And most importantly they look hungry and want to be the best team in the world.

As I watched the two test matches on the telly, it was very evident that I have been watching the world's number one Test team.  But it certainly wasn't India.

Take care.

Day 205-2011 : Belly Churners!

100 crores!  That is the amount the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) has earmarked for filling up potholes on Mumbai roads this year.  It is now that time of the year...monsoon, when the first few showers seem to be washing away the roads.  And Mumbai roads become...belly churners!

Belly churners because that is exactly the effect that these roads have on those who have the misfortune of driving through them.  Apart from causing your heart to skip a beat or two these roads can give your innards a good workout too!  The roads begin to resemble like the surface of the moon, with craters of various sizes and shapes all over the place.  One feels the brunt of it, especially if you drive a low slung vehicle like I do.  People tell me the trick is not to look out for the potholes but to lookout for any good patches of road still intact and get the car to hop, skip and jump around them!  In spite of following that advise, the chassis of my car has numerous intimate moments with the potholes these days.  Such encounters tend to not only impact the car, but also are a bit heavy on my heart, if you know what I mean.

So, why do we have these belly churners every monsoon.  100 crores sounds to be a big enough amount to me to ensure that there are no potholes.  I think the answer lies somewhere else.  Somebody in the system is not doing their job / well enough.  The news items on potholes on the recently inaugurated Lalbaug and Barfiwala (Andheri) flyovers have done little for the image of the city's infrastructure.  But I am sure Mumbaikars wouldn't have been surprised by these developments.  Someone is certainly not doing their job well.  I am told that every new road built by a civic road contractor has a guarantee period.  I would be very interested in knowing how many times has BMC invoked this guarantee clause against the contractors.

There is also talk of a powerful cartel of civic road contractors, lobbying to keep the situation as it is, so that they can exploit it for their vested interests.  Potholes then become pots of gold for these people.  For example the carboncor technology is proven to be a long-lasting solution for Mumbai roads.  However this cartel has lobbied and ensured that the use of this technology remains optional for road contractors who take up the job of filling these potholes.  Most of them use bitumen which gets washed away with the first spell of rains, thus giving the opportunity to these contractors for repeatedly fill these potholes and keep submitting fat bills for doing so.  This, in spite of a Bombay High Court order and a recommendation by a Statutory Technical Advisory Committee to use the carboncor technology.

The suffering for the common man only increases.  Mumbai traffic, rains and the resultant potholes can (and does, on a daily basis) cause mayhem on the roads.  A colleague of mine had to drive for 3 hours to get to work from Andheri (W) to Andheri (E)!  I hope someone sane in the civic administration does something about this.  The best solution is to privatise and make service providers directly accountable for the quality of the roads.  But that is a long way away.....till then I guess I will just have to bear with running into one pothole to the other, every time I drive.

The other 'belly churner' was the movie that I watched this week, Delhi Belly.  In more ways than one.  But a more detailed review of that in the next post maybe.

Till then...take care!

Day 198-2011 : Bomb Blasts! Hmmm...OK.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

It was around 7.15 in the evening.  I was at work, in the closing stages of a hour long conference call.  I receive a  message on my Office Communicator from a colleague, which says..'3 bomb blasts in Mumbai'.  I respond, 'OK'.  

The conference call gets over.  My immediate response is to try and 'google' what is happening out there.  However, I am in a series of back-to-back meetings with my staff and people overseas for the next one hour and hence cannot find out more.  In the next 30 minutes, while I am in the midst of a staff meeting, I receive 4-5 text messages (not phone calls...!) on my phone enquiring if I was safe.  I also see a missed call from Mom.  During the next conference call with people overseas, my multi-tasking self  casually 'googles' the web for news on the blast. 3 bomb blasts in Dadar, Opera House and Zaveri Bazaar; 17 injured, I read.  I think, 'Looks like a small blast'.  I also try to watch the reactions of my colleagues from glass wall of my cabin.  There seems to be flutter on the floor and people look a bit nervous.  A couple of them are worried about their near and dear ones, as they were supposed to be in the vicinity of the areas where the bomb blasts have occurred.  After a few minutes, everyone looks normal and is back to work.

The series of meetings and conference calls finally gets over.  I answer a few curious questions about the blasts from my overseas colleagues and assure them that all is well.  News travels fast these days.  I simply refresh the the 'Google Search Results' page.  It now tells me: '....8 dead, 70 injured.'  I call Priya and find out that she knows nothing about what is happening in the outside world, being with the kids at home.  I ask her to switch on the news channels and keep me informed of all that she gets to know.  I call back my Mom and assure her of my safety.  I am still not done for the day, so I continue working for sometime in the office, which includes impromptu discussions with my team and some of my peers about the blasts.  It has in the meantime also been determined that all staff in my team are safe.  Those who were supposed to be travelling to work are already in the office premises, those who had left for their homes a few hours ago, had safely reached their homes.  I try to tell one of my peers that we should be worrying about staffing for the next day.  My apprehensions are brushed off, 'Kuch nahi hoga...jo hona tha aaj ho gaya.  Kal sab normal hoga!'  I hear that the office transport has started plying the buses and the cars again after temporarily stopping it for an hour or so, 'as there were no more news of any more blasts in the city.'  I pack up for the day and walk down to the parking lot.  On my way, I call a couple of relatives in Mumbai to find out if they are safe.  They are.  One of my cousins reports hearing the sound of the Dadar blast, while on her way to the temple.  

I reach home to find Priya watching her favorite soap.  She informs me that she switched to the soap only a few moments back as she was getting bored of the same news and video clips being broadcast by the news channels repeatedly, in loop.  I switch on the news channels while having food.  '15 killed; 102 injured', the newsflash announces.  The news reporters are shown urging eye witnesses to narrate what happened, some have even recorded videos of gruesome scenes just moments after the blasts.  The scavenging reporters take great delight in being able to show these 'exclusive' clips.  I get fed up, get a sick feeling, put off the television and go to bed. 

Thursday, July 14, 2011

I get the newspapers and am staring at a bold 'AGAIN' on the front page.  The next few pages are all describing the details of the blasts.  I do not have the patience nor the inclination to read the reams of pages describing the blasts from everyone's perspective; the Mumbai Commissioner of Police to the beggar on the street.  I call office to check if everyone's reported to work.  Everyone has.  I get ready for work and on my way, see that traffic was as normal as it is on other days.  I am told there would be extra vigilance and security measures on the roads and at my work premises.  I find no difference.  The security guard at the main gate, as  usual, checks for a bomb in my car's boot (as if that is the only place where one could hide it..!) and lets me go.  I reach my desk and see everything is business as usual.  

Do you feel angry and frustrated reading the sequence of events above?  As is evident from the narration above, most Mumbaikars don't.  Apart from the people who are directly impacted by the explosions, nobody else seems to be feeling the pain and no one seems to care.  Is there a sense of vulnerability in the people of the city due to the repeated strikes by terrorists over the last few years?  The answer is, no. It seems to me that fatalism has taken over.  

Is this the famous 'resilience' of the city at play?  The answer is again, no. This is   how 'numbed minds' react.  Numbed by the audacity of the extremists at being able to strike almost at will, in the choicest of places.  Numbed by the continuing inaction and a lack of will, from the polity leading to such strikes.  Numbed by the sheer helplessness and lack of preparation of a police force, paralyzed by corruption and procrastination.  Numbed by the senseless exploitation of such incidents by the media.

The hundreds of crores invested in intelligence and equipment is obviously of no use.  Perhaps, this is the most effective way to prevent these terrorists from doing mindless acts of terror like this.  The terrorist might just decide that there is no point orchestrating such acts, as the common man seems to be numbingly indifferent to it.  

Take care.

Day 191-2011 : Investors On Strike!?

This was how an extremely articulate business leader described the current state of global financial markets a couple of weeks ago.  The BSE Sensex has fallen to a little less than 18900 from the highs of around 21000 six months ago!  This downward trend is seen in other major markets in the world.  Gold prices have appreciated exponentially and crude is again closing in on the $100 mark.  Countries in Europe are struggling to stay afloat.  Greece almost defaulted.

So what is happening?  The answer is:  Exactly what was happening a year ago!  The PIIGS (the group of European countries namely Portugal, Ireland, Italy, Greece & Spain) were in trouble exactly a year ago, when they were about to run out of cash and the IMF and some of the other eurozone countries bailed them out.  These countries are again out on the streets with the begging bowl...at least Greece is, and I am assuming Portugal will soon follow.  The austerity measures and structural reforms agreed by these very countries have not worked and have in fact been huge flops.  Instead of uniting the entire country in these times of crisis, the austerity measures have been a subject for heated debate and, specifically in Greece, public unrest.  Pro-austerity pundits believe the policy makers have not gone far enough for them to work, and the other side of the argument is that the austerity measures have in fact worsened the sovereign credit crisis.

The future of Euro as a currency is in question again as it is very clear that the inability of these countries to control their currency is one of the reasons for the crisis.  The United Kingdom, though impacted by the latest crisis, must be standing in the sidelines with a smirk on its face.  The fact that it did not join the Euro, is seen as the prime reason that it is not in a bad shape compared to others like Ireland.

Interestingly, everyone fears that the response of the market participants to the latest crisis is going to be very similar to that of 2008.  Everyone tries to de-risk, hold tight and clams up, thus causing liquidity issues in the financial system.  Investors on strike!  The declining volume trends of trades executed in the exchange-traded as well as the OTC markets over the last few weeks are very good indicators of what is in store next.  Is it going to be 2008 revisited?  A couple of key indicators are definitely different this time compared to 2008.  Unemployment rates as well as the level of public debt of major world economies, are both higher this time, thus reducing the ability of the global economy to absorb systemic shocks like a sovereign debt default or a banking system collapse. 

Hence, my view is that the world at large cannot afford a policy mistake like the Lehman bankruptcy this time around.  Sovereign policy makers as well as key corporate functionaries in today's interconnected financial system, will need to respond in a co-ordinated manner, to understand and control this emerging challenge.  There is far too much at stake...as everyone knows. 

Take care!

Day 184-2011 : Paradise on Earth - Final Part

I have finally reached the end of my boring travelogue on our trip to Kashmir.  Blogging is a time consuming hobby, so please bear with me.

The only agenda on the final day was for the whole group to fly back to their homes.  As we left the hotel everyone had mixed feelings.  On the one hand, the relief of going back to familiar environments was evident, but, on the other hand, people were surprised at how quickly the last 6 days passed.  We made new friends, which is a big plus for group tours, and everyone was promising everyone else that they would be staying in touch. 

There were worries that we could meet heavy traffic on our way to the airport as the J&K capital was being shifted that day from Jammu to Srinagar!  We were told that if we did meet those government convoys carrying the entire officialdom (people & paper), it could take hours to get out of the jams.  Thankfully, the drive from the hotel to the airport was a short one.

I have to however, mention an interesting fact, as it was a first for me.  As we approached the airport, our vehicle was stopped at a security gate about 1 KM from the airport.  The procedure was to screen all the baggage at this distance and then load it back into the vehicles to travel the rest of the distance to the airport.  In all, there were three rings of security layers by the time we reached the check-in counter. 

After going through all of that we finally boarded the flight.  We did not have to change flights this time and were back in Mumbai after 2 stops (Jammu & Delhi).  Tired and not looking forward to getting back to the daily routine.

All of us, especially the kids and me were now sporting a tan (see picture above)!  We also had cold rashes on our faces due to the extended exposure to the cold and dry weather.  They are all now gone, but it did take quite a few days for people to stop commenting on my 'looking like a red tomato' look!

While I have been writing this travelogue over the last few weeks, the global economy has again started showing signs of stalling.  Countries are being described as 'group of PIIGS'.  At least I have done my bit for the economy by burning a  huge hole in my pocket for this trip.  Is it however, going to be 2008 revisited?  Watch this space.

Take care!

Day 176-2011 : Paradise On Earth - Part 6

Sonamarg! That was our destination on this, the penultimate day of our wonderful holiday.  We kicked off our day trip just after breakfast.  It was a 2 hour drive to Sonamarg from Srinagar.  We did stop on the way at Kangan for something that we had by now got addicted to - Kahwah!

The landscape en route to Sonamarg are simply breathtaking! Tall snow-capped mountains sometimes lined with pine trees and sometimes just brown and barren were simply a sight to watch.  We also stopped briefly to take in the beauty of the surroundings.  Of course, we also couldn't resist a good snow ball fight!  Priya and the kids on one side and me, fighting a three pronged attack valiantly, on the other side.

Finally we reached Sonamarg.  The mountains were all covered with snow.  There were many tourists (and their vehicles) at the site.  We immediately embarked on an 'expedition' to trek our way up the hills.  No sooner had we started off, we were surrounded by men offering their services to accompany us to the top along with their sledges.  Our short walk and the rarefied thin air made us realise that we would need them.  Especially with the two kids.  So we hired them.  I thought we hired two of them, but realised that four of them were walking alongside us within a few moments.  The expedition party was becoming bigger.  We used the sledges, the men pulling them on our climb up the mountains.  The kids were loving it and so was Priya.  I climbed for most part of our journey, as the guy was finding it really difficult to climb while pulling my sledge.  We reached the top and the sight was amazing!

We then had to make the mandatory snowman, of course!  We did that and then started our descent.  The plan was to use the sledges on our way down.  Considering that it was quite steep, it was indeed a bit scary.  But it took us a fraction of the time to slide down the slopes compared to the time it took for our laboured climb up!  After a bit of haggling, the 'sherpas' were paid off.  I however realised, after speaking to others, that we paid about four times of what some of the others paid for the same services.  Looked like we had been taken for a ride by the locals...literally and figuratively as well!  But I do not mind it.  For us it is a once in a lifetime experience; for the locals it was only one of the few ways they could earn their livelihoods in a terrain like this.

After a very tasty lunch, at probably the only hotel in sight, we started our drive back to Srinagar.  Once we reached Srinagar, the ladies were all in a frenzy keen to do some shopping.  The men folk weren't interested.  So it was decided that the men would retreat to the hotel after dropping the women at the main market for the shopping.  After the shopping the women would join them at the hotel.  Priya was back in a couple of hours, just in time for dinner.  However, she seemed worried.  Two out of the four women had got lost in the crowded market and had not yet reached the hotel.  Moreover, Priya narrated an incident which she witnessed in the market.  A government vehicle which was towing away illegally parked vehicles in Srinagar's main market area was attacked by a stone-pelting mob.  She was, very justifiably so, very frightened.

The busy day however took its toll and after dinner, we had a good night's sleep.  I must say, the hotel was very comfortable as well, compared to the one that we were in at Gulmarg. 

My dream holiday had almost come to an end.  All that was left of it was the flight back to Mumbai the next day. 

Take care!

Day 163-2011 : Paradise On Earth - Part 5

It is amazing that even after a month and a half since we came back from Kashmir, I am still able to recall the smallest of details of the trip. 

So here we were on Day 5.  The agenda was to get out of Gulmarg and drive down to Srinagar.  Actually a lot of people who were with us in the group were quite happy (and relieved) to check out of the hotel!  We made a couple of stops on our way.  The first was at Tangmarg, after descending from the hills of Gulmarg, to return the rented warm clothes!  Priyanksh had lost a gum boot the previous day, somewhere between getting off the Gondola at Kongdoori and boarding it again on our way back.  After paying for that we were on our way to Srinagar. 

Just before we entered Srinagar, the convoy stopped at an emporium.  It was quite a big one, with almost everything that anyone would want to buy as a tourist from Kashmir!  The moment I saw it, I knew that this was going to be our first major touristy spend on the trip.  After an hour of frantic shopping, Priya looked satisfied that gifts for everyone had now been bought.  My spend control tactics helped and thankfully it was not a very large sum that I was looking at, at the end of the adventure!

We reached Srinagar and checked into the hotel after the shopping.  After a good lunch, we were off to see the sights of Srinagar city!  The first stop was the Shankaracharya temple on top of the Gopadari hill.  It is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is said to be one of the oldest shrines in the city.  Priyanksh had dozed off in the vehicle on our way to the temple.  Hence I offered to baby-sit him while Priya and Suryanksh went to the temple.  This was the first time in the 5 days that we were in Kashmir, where the security environment became a bit obvious.  The temple is a heavily guarded monument.  All of us had to get down from the vehicle at the bottom of the hill itself, for the BSF to sanitise it, before we continued our journey to the temple atop the hill.  Even within the temple none of our modern day gadgets were allowed.  Even cameras were banned.

After the temple, it was the turn of the gardens.  Srinagar is a city of gardens and shrines.  Up next were short visits to the three main Mughal Gardens in Srinagar.  The Nishat Bagh, Chashm-e-Shahi Bagh and the Shalimar Bagh were beautiful.  They are well maintained by the government agencies and are a treat to watch.  Nothing spectacular, but neat and clean.  Being a holiday, all the gardens were choc-a-block with visitors on that day.

Also, after we visited all three of them, it dawned on me that Mughal Gardens are all step gardens, with common architectural themes.

It was now quite late in the evening and we were all tired and very keen to get to the hotel to call it a day.  Not the ladies though.  The ladies in the group were planning on some additional shopping in the city area of Srinagar.  We stopped at another emporium for another round of shopping.  But as soon as we entered the place, I knew that this was a place, not to be in.  Everything was priced very high, with no value for money.  It took us exactly 5 minutes to get out of the place.  We men, very tactfully I must say, convinced the womenfolk that shopping on the next day, which was a Sunday, might be a better idea.  Mission accomplished, we were back in the hotel and looking forward to a good night's sleep.  Next up was the final leg of this wonderful trip...Sonmarg!

Take care!